The problem with buying in for $200, as an example, is that you are down to 4 Green chips, count is TC1, you place 2 Green chips and lose, last round coming up, count is now TC4 in the DD game and you want to put a max bet of $150+ but you have only 2 Green chips. If you pull out more money, you draw attention of pit and they can see that despite having 2 Green chips you are cashing more, placing a bigger bet than you have so far.
On a $25 table, a $300 or $500 but in is acceptable and the pit has moved on to other tables when you place a big bet.
Zee, why were YOU betting $50 at TC +1?
No real advantage at that point, and obvious you had already bet a few hands, as you hypothetically bought in for $200, with $100 left. You should have still been at minimum $25 bet for that round, leaving you at least $75, if TC went up after that round for your next bet.
"Your honor, with all due respect: if you're going to try my case for me, I wish you wouldn't lose it."
Fictitious Boston Attorney Frank Galvin (Paul Newman - January 26, 1925 - September 26, 2008) in The Verdict, 1982, lambasting Trial Judge Hoyle (Milo Donal O'Shea - June 2, 1926 - April 2, 2013) - http://imdb.com/title/tt0084855/
I play chunky green, and usually buy in for $400 on a 6 deck or $200 on 2D. If I'm planning on going to 2 hands at some point, I may buy in for more. I white rabbit a lot, though, and buy in at each table. So each time I move, I'm stocking up.
Zee, if I get in a situation where I want to go big but I'm short chips, I just rebuy and go big. It gives the image of going on tilt. After all, I'm short chips because I've been losing. I rebuy for the same amount of my initial buy in, or I may go in bigger. Each time you buy in, the pit is called, and frankly, I don't want the pit called more than necessary.
I do, however, religiously leave after I've shown my max bet. If I do the above (all of a sudden rebuy for $500 and go to max bet) I leave after that shoe. I'm either up--so I leave, down a lot--so I leave, or "got my money back"--so I leave. In truth, I'm leaving because I've now shown my entire spread, not because of the results.
You can definitely get a slim advantage at TC +1, but I'd suggest a SIM with your bankroll and spread to re-calculate your RoR. Most of my students I teach to up their bet (for a H17 game typically above .5%... below .5% I always recommend upping at TC +1) at TC +2. Once they become more advanced I'll let them know about running a SIM as I just described to see if they're comfortable with the added variance.
Personally, with a HE of 0% I would never push more out. Sure, you could say it's cover to up your bet at that time, but the game has enough swings and variance for my flavor. No need to add variance with no real return in EV, in my opinion.
Don't think you have a winning game; know you have a winning game.
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