I don't think $500 is all that much (Maybe a tad high but not obscene). Granted I use your $200 to $300 amount because that is what is normal and is below what is needed for the pit to come over.. Thus it does not slow the game down to a crawl when I wong in and might provide the opportunity to fire away a few big bets and leave unnoticed.
Respectfully, I disagree in part.
1. Buying in many times can call attention to your play.
2. I have definitely seen places that comp more based on drop. MGM in particular used to be big on buy-in/losing sessions.
3. Some people might play black or purple on a $25 table.
The Cash Cow.
"Buying in many times" is attention that you want.
You get pegged as a chronic poppy loser who is
playing with "scared money" or has too little cash
to seriously attack the game and win much at all.
"First impressions are lasting ones."
Comp ratings do NOT ever include buy-ins.
That urban-myth, was promulgated by casinos
to get patrons to put more cash in action.
M.G.M. - my cash cow for a truly long time.
I assure you that you have been lied to.
You are at a $2 table - you can bet chunky green.
Playing black and above actually REQUIRES
the pit critter watch your action more closely.
1. I don't agree in most situations. In fact, for most counters, getting as little attention as possible is the best way.
2. I have absolutely, 100% confirmed several casinos that do count buy-in for comp and mailer purposes.
3. Well, sometimes the game is only available on the low limit table, and you need to lay down serious action.
The Cash Cow.
I agree with moo man.
1.) the worst is when you're at or near your max bet with splits and doubles and you have to change more cash and you draw attention, you wouldn't have otherwise cause pit has to come check your money change.
2.) this is true at some places, comp based on drop, though usually not more. There are two categories, theo, and also another category like automatic loss comp (forget terminology), where if a player for example loses like 5k-10k in like 10 minutes, they still get comps. I know of a few other places as well where drop is considered heavily into the equation- these are more rare now as it's mostly based on theo, but at most places, drop still matters a little.
3.) purple action is a little rare at $25 min, but black is common.
i also agree with Mushin that it should be a "ratio" of what you're betting. You should also aim to mimic the buyins of other players according to their betting levels. Based on my observations, my optimal buy ins would be
$100-200 for red chipper
$400-700 for green chipper
$1000-$2000 for black chipper
With all due respect I think it is a mistake to make absolute statements about AP activities. Add the word "usually" to your post and I agree with you.
The next time I find a flashing dealer at a $25 min game, I will be buying in for more than $200 or $300. I can think of a number of other examples.
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