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Thread: True or False - Composition of Advantage

  1. #1


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    True or False - Composition of Advantage

    After digging and searching, I finally found out the rational or composition of cards left in the deck/ that gives the advantage. I was wondering for whatever card counting system that you utilize is it also true?

    Mine: KO, 8 decks IRC = 0 pivot or max bet indicator 32. I don't t want to get into tag values , or specifics of the game, however when my count reaches 32 the composition of the remaining deck/shoe is 1:1 rather than 6:5 which means there are same amount of High cards remaining to be dealt as there are low cards.

    Size of the advantage: Again, depending on the rules of the game etc, the size of the advantage based on splits, double downs, BJ pays 3:2 , dealer more likely to bust etc., is close to 1.5
    - 2.0% and also where max bet is placed.

    In your chosen card counting system (hi-lo, Reko, zen, etc.) is the objective or max bet triggered when the composition of the deck/shoe reaches 1:1 or 1 high card for every low card?

    Sincerely
    Last edited by Sundown; 04-11-2024 at 05:54 AM.

  2. #2


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    In your chosen card counting system (hi-lo, Reko, zen, etc.) is the objective or max bet triggered when the composition of the deck/shoe reaches 1:1 or 1 high card for every low card?
    Sounds like you may have a fundamental misunderstanding. In Hi-Lo, your advantage increases with the excess of high cards to low cards. You push out your Max bet whenever you feel the risk to your bankroll is worth it. A 1:1 ratio of remaining high to low cards would give you a running count (and True Count) of zero, implying you are playing without any additonal edge over the house edge.. You can use CVCX to generate the optimal bet for your count system, bank roll, betting unit and ramp, and it will show you where your max bet would be, as you say, "triggered".

  3. #3


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    Intermediate thanks for your response. I'll do more research, but I do know that hi-lo counts one less low card than KO, and for each positive true count, a player's advantage increases about .5% over the house. I believe a true of +4 triggers max bet as at that point one is running approximately 2% advantage over the house.

  4. #4


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    Intermediate thanks for your response. I'll do more research, but I do know that hi-lo counts one less low card than KO, and for each positive true count, a player's advantage increases about .5% over the house. I believe a true of +4 triggers max bet as at that point one is running approximately 2% advantage over the house.
    Actually, you would be at about 1.5% advantage based on rules that you have described on other threads. A +1 TC in Hi/Lo rounded is about even with the house. Consider waiting until a TC of +5 for max bet to decrease variance.

  5. #5


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    Quote Originally Posted by marriedputter View Post
    Actually, you would be at about 1.5% advantage based on rules that you have described on other threads. A +1 TC in Hi/Lo rounded is about even with the house. Consider waiting until a TC of +5 for max bet to decrease variance.
    The additional value of index play increases your edge per true count as true count increases. Think in terms of 99 v7, 8v 5,6 etc. Consider in terms of .7 increase in edge per TC starting at Risk Averse +3.

  6. #6


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    When it comes to whether this is true or false, it's not a one-size-fits-all answer. It really depends on the situation and the specific card counting system you're using, like the KO system you mentioned. In your KO system example, when you get that count to 32, you're seeing an equal mix of high and low cards left in the deck, which you believe gives you a better chance to win. This idea of spotting when the deck is in your favor (like having a 1:1 ratio of high to low cards) and then betting more is at the heart of card counting. But, if we're talking about other systems like Hi-Lo, Reko, or Zen, they each have their own way of telling you when the deck's hot or not. They don't all look for a 1:1 mix of cards to say it's time to bet big. Each system has its own method to signal when you've got an edge. So, in a nutshell, your approach with the KO system and looking for that 1:1 ratio does fit with how card counting strategies generally work. But remember, every system has its own signals for when to up your bets, based on how the cards are stacking up.

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    Thanks. It's just that aren't we all trying to accomplish the same thing....High cards good for player ....low cards bad? I was just thinking how else could one justify placing max bet.

    Thanks for your articulate response.

    Sincerely

  8. #8


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    Quote Originally Posted by Freightman View Post
    The additional value of index play increases your edge per true count as true count increases. Think in terms of 99 v7, 8v 5,6 etc. Consider in terms of .7 increase in edge per TC starting at Risk Averse +3.
    Sure. I was just giving an overall generalization for our new friend here. Don't know what indices he knows and doesn't and wasn't including any risk averse thinking. Was a place to start.

  9. #9


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    My index plays I use kick in when max bet is triggered:

    16v10 surrender
    15 v 10 surrender
    Dealers Ace - take insurance or even money
    12 v 2 stand
    12 v 3 stand
    10 v 10 Double
    10 v A Double
    11 v A Double
    9 v 2 double
    9 v 7 Double
    8 v 5 Double
    8 v 6 double

    I don't split 99 v 7 though.

    Do these look familiar?

  10. #10


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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    My index plays I use kick in when max bet is triggered
    What does this mean? The index plays you use should kick in whenever you reach that true count!! And many on your list "kick in" well before you place your max bet.

    If you're using +4 for doubling 10 vs. T, don't do it. Wait until +7.

    Finally, what does this mean:

    Quote Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
    I don't split 99 v 7 though
    You pick and choose which plays you like and which you don't?

    Don

  11. #11


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    Hi Don, I use KO, and I've chose to use the index from Daniels book "The Color of Blackjack" the 9,9 vs 7 is not on the list. The index plays kicks in when the deck is "Hot" (Aka Pivot), and since I play 8 decks, my hot number is 32 which indicates 2% advantage over the house for the game I play.

    As described by a user name of K_C from 2010:
    "At the KO pivot the number of low cards (2-7) remaining to be dealt is exactly equal to the number of high cards (T-A) remaining to be dealt. Someone who was true counting KO would have a running count of 0 (& true count = 0) at the pivot.

    KO pivot is comparable to Hi-Lo true count = +4 but not identical. Hi-Lo is measuring the imbalance of 2-6 vs T-A whereas KO is measuring imbalance of 2-7 vs T-A"

    Are you able to elaborate as to why when the ratio of low to high cards is 1:1 a player has a significant advantage and max bet is placed? I guess I always thought that the ratio needed to be more 10s and Aces for the advantage to be had.

    Sincerely

  12. #12


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    Quote Originally Posted by DSchles View Post
    What does this mean? The index plays you use should kick in whenever you reach that true count!! And many on your list "kick in" well before you place your max bet.

    If you're using +4 for doubling 10 vs. T, don't do it. Wait until +7.

    Finally, what does this mean:



    You pick and choose which plays you like and which you don't?

    Don
    In other words for OP (who likely is not well financed) - RISK AVERSE

  13. #13


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    Hi Freightman, I do play somewhat conservatively and I'm more disciplined now. I've taken the position that my main goal for now is to add to my bankroll.

    Example: if I'm wongging in and or sitting out hands when the shoe goes negative, I'm not losing much, and therefore I feel as if I don't have to aggressively bet the typical 1-15 or 1-20 spread in order to make up for the losses when my count indicates max bet.

    Currently on a weekly basis, I'm making more that what my job pays, and I'm hovering around $1,800 a week picking up $300-500 Everytime I go and keeping losses to a minimum. Example, last night made $300 after being down $600. Was getting late and I was tired so decided to leave.
    Eventually, I would like to trust the math, and spread wide, but first trying to understand a little more about the advantage.

    Thanks for your responses as usual.

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