Very good post Tthree, I could not agree more, and I follow many of the same principals, as well as others.
Thanks Bosox. Unfortunately, LW still thinks playing in a casino is just like playing on his computer as indicated by his comments about him checking out on his computer so he doesn't need someone to check out his casino play. He needs to consider what the experts mean when they say, "Counting is easy, winning money from casinos is hard". If he is too stubborn to learn how to beat various casinos rather than computers the simple solution is to not play where conditions are making winning more difficult. He knows how to win with certain conditions. Just play them and don't play the conditions he has yet to learn how to win or that they are conditions that make losing more likely and should be avoided.
If LW had a mentor this would be the kinds of things he would learn that are not published in books. I learned a lot of it on my own despite my mentors trying to teach me this sort of stuff.
Last edited by Three; 09-28-2016 at 04:38 AM.
You we're always at the head of (my) class.
The mechanics and mathematics of the game
are essential knowledge, but "the inner game"
of moving money from the casino to your pockets
is not found in books and computer software.
Some card counters are introverted O C D types
who never grasp ands fathom the crucial aspects
of what I am referencing as "the inner game"
By and large they are doomed to chronic head scratching
and sub-vocal whining.
Last edited by ZenMaster_Flash; 09-28-2016 at 05:26 AM.
Here's s concrete example for LW saying exactly what TThree is saying.
There is a nearby casino with a crappy game. The HE is .63. There are 8 seats at the table. And per my observations, a good cut is 1.5 decks.
I finally gave up winning there, and just started to drive past it.
Then one day I was in the area during a downpour, and I stopped to get out of the rain. 6 open tables, with maybe three players. Cards left in the shoe after a shuffle. And the dealers on this shift cut off a lot less. AND there's a perfect hidden spot to backcount.
I discovered at the beginning of the shoe, the ploppies run away if they lose a few hands. I can sit down and finish it, if the count warrants. And on this shift, the dealers rotate though the "floor" position, i.e., they each take a turn. A toke here or there, literally no heat.
I adjusted how I normally play, and I am winning there. Still not my favorite place, but you can't sim these conditions.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I am so very lost.
I don't split 10's. There's one dealer who keeps trying to get me to do it though lol.
I didn't realize there was a 10 second rule to backcounting, but what that has to do with basketball I do not understand. All I know about basketball is there are hoops and an orange ball that people bounce. Depending on what store I am at dictates how I backcount.
Do you mean ratholing chips? I don't currently do that, but have contemplated it at my main store.
He talked about ways that a player can do to make their game more profitable . he also give ideas to how to attack a game that is not easily SIM ( that part i don't know). They are a bunch of small thing that can add up to one's game . That is my understanding and i can be very wrong interpreting his meaning but that is my take.
Thank you for the replies. I found the energy to go back to studying hilo even though I wanted to jus call it a day and play red 7. But heres something I ran into again and wanted to clarify.
“You should truncate when using the tables in this book. Truncating means keeping the integer and dropping everything after the decimal point. That’s not difficult; truncating is what comes naturally. The first edition of the paper version of this book used flooring; but some people have difficulty flooring negative numbers, so I converted to truncating. Examples of truncating:
If the count per deck required to double down is +4, and you have a count per deck of 3.8, then do not double.
If the count per deck required to double down is +4, and you have a count per deck of 4.2, then double.
If a count per deck of -1 is required to stand, and you have a count per deck of -1.2, then hit.
If a count per deck of -1 is required to stand, and you have a count per deck of -0.8, then stand.”
Excerpt From: Wong, Stanford. “Professional Blackjack.” Pi Yee Press. iBooks.
This material may be protected by copyright.
When trunacating
3.8= Byebye to the .8 and 3 is left. 3 is not 4 so don't double. Ok I get that.
4.2= bye .2. 4=4 so double. K.
-1.2= Bye .2, so -1 now right? Why isn't it a stand?
-0.8 is now jus zero now no?
I'm misunderstanding something here
Get indices for flooring. Flooring is rounding down. Truncating causes a TC 0 bin that has twice the range of any other bin.
I can't answer your question because your reasoning for the truncated values are correct. If the indices are for truncating and the standing index is -1 you stand at any TC -1.9999 or higher.
Thanks for checking that for me. It may be a typo then?
So scrap the whole book then since indexes are based on trunacating? I'm trying to decide based on what I am understanding here...
So heres how I see it now:
+truncating is easier (less errors)
+I already have been using this version of the book
• the advantage is basically the same as the other methods of TC conversion
https://www.blackjackincolor.com/truecount4.htm
-too many values at zero, so that means more flat betting and less 1 and -1 indexes. I'm not sure if this is good or bad from a heat pov. We already know that it slightly makes us less accurate from an index pov
Bookmarks