This is the "True Edge" method. It's not completely making sense to me on how to use it or WHY you would use that approach.
It says you find your True Edge by dividing your RC by decks remaining times 4. TE = RC/(4 * DR), where TE is true edge, DR is decks remaining.
To use the chart, you stand when this TE is equal to or greater than the number listed. (Same goes for double down / surrender / split.)
For standing: 12v2: 1, 12v3: 1, 12v4: 0, 12v5: -1, 12v6: -1(h17).
What about House Edge? Do I have to subtract (or "add") that in my True Edge calculation? Because after all, a "true edge" isn't much without knowing what my edge (or lack of edge) is off the top. Of is this 'true edge' just a name? I calculated my DD game to have an edge of -0.21%. DD, DAS, RSA, LS, H17, Double Any 2 (DA2?).
Is this the technique that most use? It seems a bit complicated and, due to the "multiply by 4" thing, doesn't give you as precise indices. Or do y'all generally just find the TC = (RC / decks remaining), then use that number for index plays?
I have a chart I saved a while ago, though I can't find it's origin anymore, I have:
12v2: 6, 12v3: 3, 12v4: 1, 12v5: -2, 12v6: -5(h17), then of course the rest for all the other stand/double/split decisions.
I suppose the only advantage to the "true edge" method is that it is simpler -- instead of remembering 6/3/1/-1/-5, when you have 12, you remember 1/1/0/-1/-1. But dealing with weird fractions, would increase error rates.
Also, I couldn't find anything on bet sizing for Zen in this book.
Bookmarks