Results 1 to 13 of 48

Thread: Analyze my game please!

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    L.A.
    Posts
    31


    Did you find this post helpful? Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by countjack21 View Post
    Bef, I never analyzed my ror. If someone could help me with that, I'd appreciate it. I know it's probably not the best idea to be playing without knowing that. But like I mentioned in my first reply, my bankroll is replenishable.

    I mix my bets when the count calls for it - red and green. It just seems that it would call less attention than a big stack of reds. I try and be as kind to the dealer as possible, and if they seem to get annoyed at the mix, I apologize and say something about it being my "lucky number." If I have a $1 tip on top (making the bet $61 or $91), I tell them to deal me a blackjack to test their math skills. If I'm playing at a higher-end property and I have them, I'll use a couple of blacks for my max bet, when the tc is higher than 4.

    If the count tanks in the beginning of the shoe, I'll wait it out a bit. Not sure what you mean by "chips on hand for wonging in and out."
    That's weird you tip on top for dealer...we just put bet out to the top right for dealer. I would think it would be annoying for dealers because they have to reach for two colors of chips and break them up, but like you mentioned, 3 greens and red "seems" like less than a huge 16 stack of reds. Maybe it looks better because it's harder to judge the size of the bet, but who knows. Don't have enough experience. What I meant by chips on hand, is if you pop in/out of these tables, are you buying in/cashing out every time? That's what I've thought about doing...keeping chips in pocket enough for max bets, throwing them down, then cashing out. Would just seem weird/annoying to everyone to buy in for 200+ at +2, count tanks to -2 4-5 hands later, and you're racking up. Maybe if you don't play rated it isn't as big of deal, but like I said, don't have the experience to tell.

  2. #2


    Did you find this post helpful? Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by Bef View Post
    That's weird you tip on top for dealer...we just put bet out to the top right for dealer. I would think it would be annoying for dealers because they have to reach for two colors of chips and break them up, but like you mentioned, 3 greens and red "seems" like less than a huge 16 stack of reds. Maybe it looks better because it's harder to judge the size of the bet, but who knows. Don't have enough experience. What I meant by chips on hand, is if you pop in/out of these tables, are you buying in/cashing out every time? That's what I've thought about doing...keeping chips in pocket enough for max bets, throwing them down, then cashing out. Would just seem weird/annoying to everyone to buy in for 200+ at +2, count tanks to -2 4-5 hands later, and you're racking up. Maybe if you don't play rated it isn't as big of deal, but like I said, don't have the experience to tell.
    The tip on top for the dealer (which I think I saw on this forum, or the old one) is so that in a high count where I'm more likely to win, that $1 could turn into much more; whereas if you bet it in the traditional spot for dealers, once the hand is over, the tip bet is gone - win or lose - and you'd have to put another $ there if you wanted to tip again. With placing on top of bet, it could last for quite a few hands (I give the winning $ to dealer and keep original bet $ on top till I lose), and dealer gets a few dollars (hopefully) from that single $.

    I almost always play unrated. I don't buy in/cash out every time when I wong in and out, unless I'm leaving that place. In a place where I play "longer" sessions and I can afford the table min., my wonging out is usually if the count is -2 or more, with half a shoe or less left. Then I leave my chips at the table and go to bathroom, check phone, etc. I come back for fresh shoe. A lot of my wonging in is at higher minimum tables that I can't play without wonging in, so if I've played there earlier and have chips, I'll use those. Otherwise I use cash.

  3. #3


    Did you find this post helpful? Yes | No

    Here are CVData Results

    Quote Originally Posted by countjack21 View Post
    Hi helpful and knowledgable members of this forum,

    I've been counting for 5 years now, and my bet spread has really been formed only by going through a plethora of posts here and reading many BJ books - but nothing tailored specifically for me. It would really be great if someone could take a look and comment/advise on my game and let me know if there is a better way of playing. I'm a recreational player, but due to the nature of my day job, I have a lot of free time, so I go to Vegas around once a month for 3-4 days. I figure if I'm going to be counting, I should really be maximizing the profit potential.

    I only play shoes. Most games I play are 6 deck, H17, around 75-85% pen, around half have surrender, most RSA, all DAS. I utilize i18 and f4. I rarely use cover and almost always wong out at -2 (unless playing heads-up, which I really prefer). I only play $5 and $10 games. If the minimum is higher, I'll back count and wong in at +2. I try and keep my sessions short, especially after a max bet or big win. I rarely feel heat. I also like to tip friendly/helpful dealers by placing a $1 chip on top of bets when the count is high. I keep it on top till I lose. If I left out any vital info, let me know.

    Here's my current bet progression ($10 game):

    0-1 = $10
    +2 = 2x$30
    +3 = 2x$60
    +4 = 2x$90

    Can someone tell me what my hourly win rate would be? Should I be doing something different to increase it (without bringing on heat)?

    Thanks in advance!
    Quote Originally Posted by countjack21 View Post
    My thought was (and I definitely remember seeing this in a few places) that when I spread to 2 hands, it's like I'm playing one hand for less than that amount. So my spread is really 1-12, but to lessen my risk, I can spread to 2x9 and it's considered the same (The one hand multiplied by 1.5).

    I use hi-lo. My bankroll is replenishable. On each trip, I bring 700 units, and have more in the bank should I need it.
    Quote Originally Posted by countjack21 View Post
    I'm not sure, since it's replenishable. Before it's replenished monthly, let's say $13k. With $2k added monthly. Thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by countjack21 View Post
    The tip on top for the dealer (which I think I saw on this forum, or the old one) is so that in a high count where I'm more likely to win, that $1 could turn into much more; whereas if you bet it in the traditional spot for dealers, once the hand is over, the tip bet is gone - win or lose - and you'd have to put another $ there if you wanted to tip again. With placing on top of bet, it could last for quite a few hands (I give the winning $ to dealer and keep original bet $ on top till I lose), and dealer gets a few dollars (hopefully) from that single $.

    I almost always play unrated. I don't buy in/cash out every time when I wong in and out, unless I'm leaving that place. In a place where I play "longer" sessions and I can afford the table min., my wonging out is usually if the count is -2 or more, with half a shoe or less left. Then I leave my chips at the table and go to bathroom, check phone, etc. I come back for fresh shoe. A lot of my wonging in is at higher minimum tables that I can't play without wonging in, so if I've played there earlier and have chips, I'll use those. Otherwise I use cash.
    countjack21,

    I simmed a 6D, H17, RSA, LS game with 60 cards cut off (80% pen) for two players: you (HiLo I18 & Fab4, including splitting X's vs. a 5 and 6 when appropriate) and a B.S. player. I had you start each shoe, and wong out if the HiLo TC fell to -2 (or lower) but ONLY IN THE LAST THREE DECKS OF THE SHOE. Also, I had the software shuffle when you left, so these results have no "waiting time" in them.

    I've posted pictures of the CVData output and the RoR calculation.
    Countjack21 CVData Results.jpgCountjack21 RoR Results.jpg

    Hope this helps!

    Dog Hand

  4. #4


    Did you find this post helpful? Yes | No
    Quote Originally Posted by Dog Hand View Post
    countjack21,

    I simmed a 6D, H17, RSA, LS game with 60 cards cut off (80% pen) for two players: you (HiLo I18 & Fab4, including splitting X's vs. a 5 and 6 when appropriate) and a B.S. player. I had you start each shoe, and wong out if the HiLo TC fell to -2 (or lower) but ONLY IN THE LAST THREE DECKS OF THE SHOE. Also, I had the software shuffle when you left, so these results have no "waiting time" in them.

    I've posted pictures of the CVData output and the RoR calculation.
    Countjack21 CVData Results.jpgCountjack21 RoR Results.jpg

    Hope this helps!

    Dog Hand
    Dog Hand - This is perfect! Thanks so much! ~$40 and hour is definitely closer to what I had thought than the $18/hour previously posted in this thread. Now I can justify my $35 Vegas haircuts and the occasional table massage.

    Really appreciate your help.
    Last edited by countjack21; 10-13-2013 at 06:23 PM.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-03-2008, 01:10 PM
  2. sukces: which game is better?
    By sukces in forum Blackjack Beginners
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-02-2006, 07:14 AM
  3. sean: can i win this game??
    By sean in forum Blackjack Beginners
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-27-2004, 08:54 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

About Blackjack: The Forum

BJTF is an advantage player site based on the principles of comity. That is, civil and considerate behavior for the mutual benefit of all involved. The goal of advantage play is the legal extraction of funds from gaming establishments by gaining a mathematic advantage and developing the skills required to use that advantage. To maximize our success, it is important to understand that we are all on the same side. Personal conflicts simply get in the way of our goals.