I have mostly played BJ using Hi-Lo and bet spreads of 1-4 units ($10 - $40) with single and DD's. I was wondering what sort of mental issues one finds when moving from DD to 6 decks besides assessing true counts and playing strategy adjustments?
Do you find it harder or easier? I think my biggest issue would be moving my maximum bets to $100+, especially when I will be playing with a $2500 -$3000 bank roll and with dealing with negative decks?
Comments?
> I have mostly played BJ using Hi-Lo and bet
> spreads of 1-4 units ($10 - $40) with single
> and DD's. I was wondering what sort of
> mental issues one finds when moving from DD
> to 6 decks besides assessing true counts and
> playing strategy adjustments?
> Do you find it harder or easier? I think my
> biggest issue would be moving my maximum
> bets to $100+, especially when I will be
> playing with a $2500 -$3000 bank roll and
> with dealing with negative decks?
> Comments?
It is a bad idea to increase your max bet simply to increase your spread in order to play shoes, if you do not have the increased bankroll to support such a max bet.
You don't. You're actually playing with a relatively high risk of ruin with a $40 max bet.
With a $2500 BR and a "$100+" max bet, you could easily be wiped out in a single session.
Instead of increasing your max bet in order to get a larger spread, decrease your minimum.
Table limits a problem? Then wong out when the the shoe goes negative. This way you will also avoid "dealing with negative decks."
Read Blackjack Attack, 2nd Ed. by Don Schlesinger for much more info on wonging shoes.
> I have mostly played BJ using Hi-Lo and bet
> spreads of 1-4 units ($10 - $40) with single
> and DD's. I was wondering what sort of
> mental issues one finds when moving from DD
> to 6 decks besides assessing true counts and
> playing strategy adjustments?
SD and DD start afresh every couple of minutes. Shoes last much longer, so you need to make sure that you keep the count throughout, with no mental lapses. When shoes get good, they tend to stay good for a long time, so you need to get used to putting out large bets, hand after hand, which means frequent swings in bankroll that you may be unaccustomed to, playing handheld games.
> Do you find it harder or easier? I think my
> biggest issue would be moving my maximum
> bets to $100+, especially when I will be
> playing with a $2500 -$3000 bankroll and
> with dealing with negative decks?
With a top bet of $100+, you're going to need a lot more than a $2,500-$3,000, to be properly capitalized. Using the Strip 4.5/6, s17, das, ls game as a guideline, with a 1-10 spread ($10-$100), for the play-all approach, you would need about $7,500 of bank, for the Kelly-optimal approach. With just $3,000 your ROR is an unacceptably high 45%. Be careful!
Don
Most times I play DD with a $25 - 200 spread and rarely 6D (in my local place) were I use something like $10 - 240 (which is possible in my local place).
But so far I just played $25-100 on SD (LV, Reno, Tunica). Supposed my BR is sufficient do I underbet at SD (compared to DD & 6D)? Should I better go $50 - 200 here? Considering not only the pure math but also the heat-factor on SD!
Thanks
Shadow
Thanks, Don. Now, given that I hve only a $2500 bank roll on a 2-3 day visit to Las Vegas, would I be okay playing downtown at $5 tables with 1 unit for all negative counts, $10 for +1, $15 for +2, $20 for +3, $30 for +4 and $40 for higher counts?
Any suggestions for places to play SD or DD with the above in Las Vegas?
> SD and DD start afresh every couple of
> minutes. Shoes last much longer, so you need
> to make sure that you keep the count
> throughout, with no mental lapses. When
> shoes get good, they tend to stay good for a
> long time, so you need to get used to
> putting out large bets, hand after hand,
> which means frequent swings in bankroll that
> you may be unaccustomed to, playing handheld
> games.
> With a top bet of $100+, you're going to
> need a lot more than a $2,500-$3,000, to be
> properly capitalized. Using the Strip 4.5/6,
> s17, das, ls game as a guideline, with a
> 1-10 spread ($10-$100), for the play-all
> approach, you would need about $7,500 of
> bank, for the Kelly-optimal approach. With
> just $3,000 your ROR is an unacceptably high
> 45%. Be careful!
> Don
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