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Thread: Early REKO

  1. #1


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    Early REKO

    I have been counting for a couple of months and have experienced moderate success, not sure if this is due to positive variance, skill. or a combination. I practiced for about 50 hours and I’m able to count down a deck in a little less than 25 seconds.

    Other than continuing study and practice with Casino Verite, is there anything more I can do to improve my skill? I’ve been careful not to draw attention, but it’s kinda tough. I’m intimidated by the prospect of back counting and have not read Mr. Wong’s highly regarded book yet. I am a competitive chess player and for many years I have been oblivious to disguising my intention.

    Ive never actually had a conversation with an AP. That’s why I’m reaching out. Thanks.

  2. #2


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    If you are using Simple REKO, that is a very versatile count which is more than adequate to give you an edge. But there is a trade off, you get versatility at the expense of efficiency...which is a matter of personal preference. Personally, I used to use Simple REKO but decided there were not enough single and double deck games in my area to warrant sticking with it and switched to REKO 6 Deck Full; there are more than enough 6 Deck games in my locale to justify the switch and I am happy I did. Also, if you are considering switching, depending on the games available in your area and your bankroll, you might want to consider learning the S17 indexes versus the H17 indexes. You can use them on the H17 game with minimal loss of EV and get their full value on the S17 game, where normally the minimum and maximun bets are higher, if you want to be able to play both games without learning 2 sets of indexes.

    Finally, if you do not wish to back count, then front count; start playing the shoe at the beginning, right after the shuffle, and Wong out when you hit an ODP (Optimal Departure Point). For the REKO 6 Deck Full S17 LS (IRC -20) game I use -24 for Deck 1, -20 for D2, -16 for D3, -10 for D4, -5 for D5 and 0 for D6. These ODPs too may be used on the S17 and H17 games with minimal loss in EV. These ODPs roughly approximate between -.75% and -1% player disadvantage.

    Wonging, back counting and front counting IMHO are essential to include in your game and I never play hands past an ODP.
    Last edited by Wave; 01-11-2020 at 08:29 PM.

  3. #3


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    Quote Originally Posted by Wave View Post

    Also, if you are considering switching, depending on the games available in your area and your bankroll, you might want to consider learning the S17 indexes versus the H17 indexes. You can use them on the H17 game with minimal loss of EV and get their full value on the S17 game, where normally the minimum and maximun bets are higher, if you want to be able to play both games without learning 2 sets of indexes.
    This is a good point. I'm currently struggling with my playing strategy and actually don't like to have two different strategies for S17 and H17. However, I have little bankroll and most low-limit games seem to be H17, whereas all compromise strategies (including REKO and Colin Jones) seem to be optimized for the "wrong" rule S17.

    You said it costs little to use S17 strategy for H17 game, but I'm wondering what the contrary costs, namely to use H17 strategy for S17 game? I mean with the usual Basic Strategy and playing indices similar to REKO and KO Preferred, but with additional surrender 15 versus Ace and surrender (8,8) versus Ace and double 11 versus 11 even for Basic Strategy.

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