Buy In

[Romes]

generally the cage does not sell chips

The poker room cage does...

[COBeardown95]

Another option is to buy in at a game you don't intend to play, like craps. Over buy, then carry your chips to BJ.

All the better to camouflage with

[21forme]

Another option is to buy in at a game you don't intend to play, like craps. Over buy, then carry your chips to BJ.

Good idea. I haven't been there for a while, but in the place in the AC Marina with the hot waitresses, I buy in at the poker room cage

[Bubbles]

I prefer to buy in for 20x table minimum. If the place is sweaty, I'll buy in for a little less and use 20s and random small bills.

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[ZeeBabar]

The problem with buying in for $200, as an example, is that you are down to 4 Green chips, count is TC1, you place 2 Green chips and lose, last round coming up, count is now TC4 in the DD game and you want to put a max bet of $150+ but you have only 2 Green chips. If you pull out more money, you draw attention of pit and they can see that despite having 2 Green chips you are cashing more, placing a bigger bet than you have so far.

On a $25 table, a $300 or $500 but in is acceptable and the pit has moved on to other tables when you place a big bet.

[Frank Galvin]

Zee, why were YOU betting $50 at TC +1?

No real advantage at that point, and obvious you had already bet a few hands, as you hypothetically bought in for $200, with $100 left. You should have still been at minimum $25 bet for that round, leaving you at least $75, if TC went up after that round for your next bet.

[RCJH]

I play chunky green, and usually buy in for $400 on a 6 deck or $200 on 2D. If I'm planning on going to 2 hands at some point, I may buy in for more. I white rabbit a lot, though, and buy in at each table. So each time I move, I'm stocking up.

Zee, if I get in a situation where I want to go big but I'm short chips, I just rebuy and go big. It gives the image of going on tilt. After all, I'm short chips because I've been losing. I rebuy for the same amount of my initial buy in, or I may go in bigger. Each time you buy in, the pit is called, and frankly, I don't want the pit called more than necessary.

I do, however, religiously leave after I've shown my max bet. If I do the above (all of a sudden rebuy for $500 and go to max bet) I leave after that shoe. I'm either up--so I leave, down a lot--so I leave, or "got my money back"--so I leave. In truth, I'm leaving because I've now shown my entire spread, not because of the results.

[ZeeBabar]

Zee, why were YOU betting $50 at TC +1?

No real advantage at that point, and obvious you had already bet a few hands, as you hypothetically bought in for $200, with $100 left. You should have still been at minimum $25 bet for that round, leaving you at least $75, if TC went up after that round for your next bet.

In a DD game, $25 min, Ace rich, I either have two hands of $25 or one hand of $50. How big a negative is TC1 ?

[21forme]

The DD games I've simmed (H17, DAS) call for a 2 unit bet at TC +1, as there is a +0.3% advantage. Isn't software amazing?

[Freightman]

The DD games I've simmed (H17, DAS) call for a 2 unit bet at TC +1, as there is a +0.3% advantage. Isn't software amazing?

Interestingly enough, I'm prepared to make that bet, trading variance with the house, when even with the house. Makes the next parlay look more natural. Granted, the comment could comes from a mostly shoe player, but the principle is the same.

[21forme]

Interestingly enough, I'm prepared to make that bet, trading variance with the house, when even with the house. Makes the next parlay look more natural. Granted, the comment could comes from a mostly shoe player, but the principle is the same.

That, too. I have no problem pushing out more when the edge is zero.

[Romes]

That, too. I have no problem pushing out more when the edge is zero.

You can definitely get a slim advantage at TC +1, but I'd suggest a SIM with your bankroll and spread to re-calculate your RoR. Most of my students I teach to up their bet (for a H17 game typically above .5%... below .5% I always recommend upping at TC +1) at TC +2. Once they become more advanced I'll let them know about running a SIM as I just described to see if they're comfortable with the added variance.

Personally, with a HE of 0% I would never push more out. Sure, you could say it's cover to up your bet at that time, but the game has enough swings and variance for my flavor. No need to add variance with no real return in EV, in my opinion.

[Freightman]

You can definitely get a slim advantage at TC +1, but I'd suggest a SIM with your bankroll and spread to re-calculate your RoR. Most of my students I teach to up their bet (for a H17 game typically above .5%... below .5% I always recommend upping at TC +1) at TC +2. Once they become more advanced I'll let them know about running a SIM as I just described to see if they're comfortable with the added variance.

Personally, with a HE of 0% I would never push more out. Sure, you could say it's cover to up your bet at that time, but the game has enough swings and variance for my flavor. No need to add variance with no real return in EV, in my opinion.

The shoestring bankroll would favour your approach. The more bullish beefy type bankroll would favour the 2 unit long term break even wager.