The OP did not reference a "new counter."Originally Posted by Boz
Go back and retrace your steps, as he
very clearly implied professionalism:
Clearly, you're mistaken. And regardless of your interpretation, your advice hardly has any practical use for anyone. I seriously doubt anyone would ask 'is it theoretically possible to get banned everywhere in the same sense that anything is possible?" I believe the intent of the question was more like "Am I (the OP) at serious risk of getting banned everywhere if I play full-time and spread my action across the country."
No hard feelings Flash. I still love you. But seriously, no more friend requests on Tinder.
Last edited by Boz; 06-10-2016 at 10:05 PM.
I don't think this is too much of a concern. I have a very colorful OSN profile with numerous different photos of myself and detailed notes in it. When I go out of town though, I usually have no problems putting time in at the tables. I either play unrated or I'll play rated at a tolerant store where I know I have a clean name. Just don't play any local sweatshops (this is where networking comes in handy) and don't use a card if you think it's dirty.
What will happen to red chippers varies from store to store. Some places back off any winning players while others back of any counters or suspected counters. But what is most common is they note you are a counter and let you take a shot at losing your BR. Most newbies will. If you are successful or develop a sufficient BR through other means you will get backed off as soon as you start playing for real money.
Related to this is my strident advice to ALWAYS buy in "on the short side",
meaning that if you are a red chipper you do not buy-in with over $100,
or preferably $50. Green Chippers buying in for $200 or so is acceptable.
Playing a $50 or $100 game, $500 suffices.
You need to create the image of someone who has insufficient funds to
mount a meaningful strategy. A patron playing with "Scared Money."
The more times you buy-in in at the same table or in the same pit the
better; as you will be crafting an impression of a chronic loser, as the
pit critter records several buy-ins.
This is good advice for large playing venues such as Vegas.
Being used to my $500 buyins at home, I bought into a downtown min $25 DD game for $300, and rebought at $500. The $500 buy in prompted an immediate phone call to the host was immediately made. There as considerable effort expended to get me to get a players card. A $500 buy in at a strip 6d $25 min game promoted the comment that I must want comps.
You guys know way more than me but this is what I've tried to do.
I can act like I'm steaming pretty bad (i do this in poker too even though my far my best strength as a poker player is not tilting and i don't even feel my heart rate increase or a bit of anger when someone two outs me. but most players steam bad so they buy the act and it's easier to get action if i pick up a good hand shortly after a bad beat) and i think it's a lot easier to get away with jumping bets if you're "all in" for your last whatever, lose rebuy for 300 bet that like you're trying to get even etc rather than buying in for 2000 to spread 25-200 (or whatever you can get away with)
So let's suppose I'm a red chipper playing on one spot (5 euro). My buy in was a 100 euro. If the count goes up -where (my)max bets are mandatory- shall i just reach for my pocket and pop out 75 euro on two spots all of a sudden?!?!?! Kinda strange isn't?!
Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
...
Bookmarks